Sarnies smoked salmon spaghetti: A sublime, succulent sensation

Almost a year ago, I had one of the best brunch dishes of my life at a little, obscure cafe in Bangkok called Sarnies. It's a bit of a lox bagel in pasta form, which they call their salmon carbonara. It cured my hangover that morning, made me fall in love with my brunch companion, parted the clouds, and brought peace upon the earth. Or at least that's how I remember it. This pasta is that good. I actually think it's a better dinner entree but, fuck it, serve it for dinner, brunch, as a midnight snack, as a halftime treat for a soccer team, give it to the astronauts. It doesn't really matter the setting -- this pasta is insane and takes only a few minutes to whip together.

Prep time: 1 cocktails

12 oz dried sourdough pasta (I prefer fettuccini) - if you cannot find sourdough, your normal pasta will work
1 batch creamy coconut pasta sauce
2-4 ounces smoked salmon/lox cut into small strips or coin-size medallions
A small tin of salmon roe (it sometimes is really sticky; rinse if needed)
A handful of bonito flakes
Fresh dill bits
A few shreds of nori, 1/8" wide
A few spoonfuls of capers rinsed and drained (optional)
Lemon wedges for serving

Prepare the pasta.

While pasta is boiling, make the coconut cream sauce. Toss the pasta and warm sauce together and plate it. Top with salmon pieces, a few pinches roe, several big pinches of bonito flakes, dill, and nori (and capers too, if using). 

Serve with a lemon wedge or two for squeezing over the top, if you want, as well as any extra dill you might want.

Radicchio wedge salad with orange fennel vinaigrette

I've developed a minor obsession with radicchio over the last couple years. With its bitterness, crunch, pepperiness, silky outer leaves, and brilliant color, it is an interesting ingredient. The fun in working with unique and big flavors like radicchio is in finding the right combination of things to pair it with. For this recipe, grilling radicchio to make the bitterness stand out even more is a fun trick that I've pursued. Then I tame it with sweet and sour of the dressing, along with the big velvety flavor of blue cheese and the crunchy earthiness of nuts. The crispness of optional some brightly-flavored vegetables adds additional interest. While I'm not a fan of a traditional wedge salad, this super unique take on it does the trick every time. If I owned a restaurant, this would undoubtedly be my house salad (which would cost a tidy sum due to the outrageous cost of radicchio). 

Prep time: 1 cocktail

Fennel seed, orange, and dijon vinaigrette
1 tsp whole fennel seeds, toasted a bit and lightly ground up with a mortar and pestle
1/4 tsp salt (or more to taste)
1 tsp grated shallot, using a microplane or the finest side of a box grater
1 TBSP dijon mustard
1 TBSP olive oil
1/4 cup fresh squeezed orange juice
1 TBSP white balsamic vinegar
1/2 tsp poppy seeds (optional)

Salad base
1 large head radicchio (~6+ inches in diamater) or a couple smaller heads
2 ounces blue cheese crumbles
Toasted hazelnuts, pine nuts, or pistachios, chopped up a bit

Optional salad additions
Prepared farro or Israeli couscous (chilled and seasoned with salt and pepper) or delicate lettuce like bibb lettuce
Ribbons of celery, made with a vegetable peeler
Thinly sliced radish
Roasted, diced beets

Preheat a grill to a medium setting or a frying pan with a little canola or avocado oil on medium-high to high heat. Quarter the radicchio so that you cut through the stem core, which prevents the leaves from separating and falling off the head. If grilling, brush the radicchio with some oil. Add the radicchio and char the segments on each of their three sides, getting them a fairly well blackened, but not totally burned (this is maybe 2-6 minutes per side). Remove from heat and transfer to a plate and refrigerate, uncovered, until cold.

While radicchio is cooking (or while it cools), whisk together all dressing ingredients. 

Once the radicchio has chilled, arrange your salad. Start with a bed of lettuce, couscous, or farro, if you're using any of these. Then top with the radicchio (or just start with the radicchio on fresh plates, if not using a base). Sprinkle with blue cheese crumbles. Add any of the other salad additions that you might want (if any). Sprinkle the nuts on top and drizzle with dressing.

Enjoy!

Colorado-style restaurant red enchilada sauce

In Colorado, we have a spin on Mexican food that's distinct from other regions like Texas or New Mexico (not to mention Mexico itself). This recipe is a dead ringer for Colorado diner-style enchilada sauce, which is similar to New Mexican but we add tomato sauce and use less chili powder. The result is a somewhat more complex and layered sauce. If you've ever had red enchilada sauce in my fair state, it's some variation of this recipe. And this is light years ahead of the weird, off-tasting premade red slop theyt sell at the supermarket in cans. It's well worth the few extra minutes to use this instead of premade to really amp up your meal! This also is great on eggs, potatoes, tacos, chilaquiles, or damn near anything else.

Prep time: 1/4 cocktail

1/3 cup neutral cooking oil (like canola or avacado -- don't use olive oil)
1/3 cup white flour
1/3-1/2 cup chili powder, to taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
Several pinches white pepper (optional)
1 15-ounce can tomato sauce
3 cups vegetable stock

Salt to taste

Combine chili powder, cumin, garlic powder, oregano, and white pepper (if using) in a small bowl.

Heat the oil in a medium pan over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk constantly for 1 minute. Add the spice combo and whisk constantly for 1 more minute. Slowly add the tomato sauce, still whisking continuously. Then, slowly add the veg stock while continuing to whisk. Simmer for 1 more minute and adjust salt to taste. You can cook down for a while if you prefer a thicker sauce, but it's normally served somewhat thin when you have it here. 

Vegan (or not) kimchi tuna melt

If you didn't already know, you can make a vegetarian tuna salad with mashed garbanzo means instead of tuna and the flavor profile and texture are almost identical. This takes the concept and elevates it more with kimchi. It's a kinda-healthy-kinda-indulgent, unique, delicious lunch!

Kimchi "tuna" salad:

1 cup kimchi, chopped up, retain the juices
1 15-ounce can garbanzo beans (or 2-3 cans tuna), drained
1/3 cup mayonnaise (vegan or non vegan)
1 TBSP rice vinegar
Dash of fish sauce (optional but highly recommended)
1-2 TBSP dijon or Korean mustard
2 celery ribs, chopped
2 scallions, sliced
1 1/2 tsp toasted sesame oil

3/4-1 tsp ginger grated with a microplane

Small handful sesame seeds, shelled sunflower seeds, or a combination

For the sandwiches:

Good sandwich bread (I recommend good artisnal sourdough, but any sandwich bread will do)
Cheese (vegan or normal): sharp cheddar, grueyere, or brie are all great options

Bonito flakes (nori strips are a good vegan substution)
Veggies (optional) (quick pickled carrots or cucumbers, sprouts, fried plantains, smashed avacado, or sliced jalepenos are all great)

Soft fried egg (optional)

Optional step: if kimchi has too much of a bite, you can caramelize it a little on the stovetop before making the "tuna" salad. This will sweeten and mellow the kimchi a fair amount. 

Combine garbanzos, mayo, vinegar, fish sauce, and mustard in a medium mixing bowl. Mash with a potato masher until you get a tuna salad consistency.

Stir in kimchi (caramelized or raw -- and don't forget the juices), celery, scallions, sesame oil, ginger, and seeds. Adjust flavors to taste. 

Make the sandwiches like any tuna melt: heat a skillet and brush bread with oil or some butter, add tuna salad and cheese and cook until bread is toasted and cheese is melted. 

Remove from heat, open sandwich up, add bonito flakes to taste, veggies, and egg (if using). Put the sandwich back together and enjoy!

Salsa de arbol base recipe

 

This is my base recipe for salsa de arbol. It can be sexed up with just about nything: cilantro, a bit of additional raw onion, charred bell pepper, spices... whatever. 

Heat levels depend on how many chiles de arbol you use:

• 2-4 chiles = mild salsa
• 6-8 chiles = medium salsa
• 10-12 chiles = hot salsa
• 16+ chilies = EXTRA spicy

Prep time: 1/4 cocktail

2-20+ chiles de arbol (see note above)
2-4 guajilio chilies
1-1.25 pounds roma tomatoes, quartered lengthwise
1 large onion, peeled and quartered

3 cloves garlic, peeled (left whole)
Optional: a couple jalepenos, de-stemmed and sliced lengthwise
1 tsp powdered bullion (I use Knorr tomato chicken, available at Mexican grocers)
1/2 tsp salt

Lime juice or apple cider vinegar to taste (optional)

Preheat oven to 400. Place arbols and guajilio on a baking sheet and bake until they change colors and get aromatic. This can happen fast -- don't burn them. You just want a light toast.

Transfer toasted chilies to a small pan, add just enough water to submerge them fairly well. Put on the stovetop and bring to a boil, then immediately remove from heat and set aside to cool.

On your now empty baking sheet, arrange the tomatoes and onions (and jalepenos if using) in a single layer on baking sheet. Put into oven and bake for 10-20 minutes, or until the bottoms of the veggies are blistering and charred a bit. 

Add the garlic to the baking sheet and change oven setting to broil. Cook until the veggies are nice and blistered and a little charred on top too, about 10-20 more minutes (but will vary on individual ovens).

Now, remove stems from soaked guajilios and transfer the soaked peppers, roasted veggies, bullion, and salt to blender. Blend until you have a nice salsa consistency (do not overblend). Add water, if you want a thinner consistency. 

Add lemon or vinegar to taste and adjust salt. Chill and serve.

Base recipe: Taqueria emulsified habenero salsa

 

This is my standard base recipe for what might be my favorite salsa. Though it has a couple habeneros, it's actually pretty mild, as the roasting process and addition of oil takes the bite out of it. This is a delicious, complex salsa that you can add other veggies or spices to if you want. But the base version itself is also perfect. Recipe makes 1 quart.

Prep time: 1/2 cocktail

1/2 orange bell papper, guts removed and sliced in half (into two quarters)
2 habeneros, sliced in half lenthwise and de-stemmed
4 large roma tomatoes, quartered lenthwise (about 1-1.25 pounds)
1 medium white onion, peeled and sliced into quarters
2-3 large tomatillos, dehusked and sliced in half

3 cloves garlic
1/2 cup neutral oil, like canola (NOT olive oil)

2 tsp powdered bullion (I use Knorr tomato chicken, available at any Mexicn grocer)
1 tsp sugar
A few tiny dashes white vinegar (to taste)

Salt to taste (may not be needed, depending on bullion used)

Preheat oven to 375 (not in convection mode--you want the veggies to roast from the bottom.

Arrange the following in a single layer on baking sheet (a layer of aluminum foil can make cleanup a lot easier): bell pepper, habeneros, tomatoes, onion, and tomatillos. Put into oven and bake for 5-10 minutes, or until the bottoms of the veggies are blistering and charred a bit. 

Add the garlic to the baking sheet and change oven setting to broil. Cook until the veggies are nice and blistered and a little charred on top too, about 5-10 more minutes (but will vary on individual ovens).

Once veggies are nicely roasted, transfer them all to a blender with oil, bullion, and sugar. Puree until it is a nice, totally smooth consistency. Adjust flavor with white vinegar, salt (I usually add ~1/2 tsp of both salt and vinegar), and additional sugar, if necessary. You can also add a little water if you want a thinner consistency. Cool and serve. 

Xawaash

This is a Somali spice mix used in a ton of different dishes.

2 cinnamon sticks
2 TBSP black peppercorns
1/2 cup whole cumin seed
1/2 cup whole corriander seeds
8 cardamom pods
1 teaspoon whole cloves
2 tsp ground turmeric

Break the cinnamon stick up into a few smaller pieces with your hands. Place all ingredients except turmeric in a medium dry frying pan on medium heat.

Lightly toast spices, stirring constantly, as they become highly aromatic and start to turn a tad darker color (but not burned). When finished, transfer to an electric spice or coffee grinder and grind into a powder. Add turmeric, and store in a cool, dark place with an airtight lid. 

Somali chickpea and potato stew

This is an adapted version of Somali beef stew, bariis maraq, but I use chickpeas instead of beef. But if you want something a little more meaty, I recommend using 1 pound of seitan that is chopped into steak-like strips or pieces, sautéed until a tad browned, then added to the stew 5-10 minutes before the end of cooking. 

Prep time: 2 cocktails

1 very large red onion (or 2 medium onions), finely minced a food processor is great for this, just don't make it completely into a slurry
3 TBSP neutral-tasting oil, like canola or avacado
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 TBSP Xawaash
2 potatoes, chopped into 3/4" cubes
2 TBSP tomato paste or ~2 tomatoes chopped
6 stalks celery (chopped in half or thirds, so they fit inside pan)
2 cans garbanzo beans, drained

1 red bell pepper and/or 1-2 carrots, all chopped (both are optional)
3-4 cups veggie stock homemade or store-bought

Lime wedges and cilantro for serving

Fried banana wheels for serving, optional

Heat a dry large medium to large saucepan or dutch oven over medium heat. When hot, add onions and dry-saute for 5-8 minutes, until the onion have become a little translucent and soft and might stick just a tiny bit to the bottom of the pan.

Increase heat to medium-high, add oil, stir well and then stir in garlic. Saute garlic 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add spice mixture and stir frequently for 1 more minute.

Add potatoes, tomato paste, celery stalks, garbanzos, carrots/bell pepper (if using), and stock. Stir well and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until potatoes are fully cooked, about 10-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. 

Once cooked, remove lid, discard celery, and cook until desired consistency is reached (should be a nice thick stew that can be served over rice). If too thick, add a little water or stock. Adjust salt and seasoning. Finish with a few squeezes of lime and a sprinkle of cilantro leaves, as well as fried banana, if eating.

The most legit vegetarian BBQ you're ever gonna find. Really.

This is a bit of a labor of love that I've been working on for a while now. While I normally avoid vegetarian facsimiles of meaty meals, this is an exception. Even as a vegetarian for decades, I still occasionally miss the smoky goodness of a pulled pork sandwich or the tangy richness of a brisket slow cooked all night then finished with homemade bbq sauce. Developing a good, realistic-tasting BBQ sandwich has been on my to-do list for a long time. So long, in fact, that I 'test kitchened' this recipe extensively the last few months, making literally dozens of different variations, until I landed on this, the ideal vegetarian bbq sandwich. It is smoky, tangy, rich, satisfying. 

Note that I also use homemade BBQ sauce for this. Just about every store-bought sauce is too sugary and without adequate vinegary bite to make this recipe work. So I don't recommend you use any store-bought BBQ sauce. 

You'll need some way to smoke some of your ingredients. You can obviously use a standalone outdoor smoker. I actually use an indoor smoker: the Nordic Ware kettle smoker. Don't own a smoker? NO PROBLEM! The internet is loaded with different ways to make your own homemade version. Most of these require little more than a Dutch oven with a heavy lid, some aluminum foil, a steamer basket or strainer, and smoker wood chips (available online or at any gourmet store or retailer that sells grilling supplies). It's easy to make either an outdoor version or a stovetop version for smoking inside.

Finally, you need to start this a day or so ahead of time, since you need to freeze and then thaw the tofu. Freezing it significantly changes the texture and ability to soak up the marinade, so this is a pretty essential step. 

This makes about 6 'brisket' sandwiches.

Prep time: 3 cocktails

Tofu + Marinade
1 15-ounce brick of tofu
3 TBSP orange juice

1 TBSP miso paste

2-3 TBSP canola oil
2 TBSP Worcestershire sauce
2 TBSP soy sauce
3 TBSP red wine

Several dashes of MSG or dried mushroom powder (optional)

~1/2 cup smoked walnuts (optional, see note below)

The BBQ sauce

6 TBSP butter 

1 cup of my Bold Boulder BBQ Sauce

2 tsp brown sugar

2 tsp agave or honey

Fixings

Buns

Grated high-end white cheddar

Chopped scallions

Pickled red onions (you can use any basic online recipe)

Additional optional toppings: coleslaw, chopped pickles, fresh or pickled jalepeno, thinly sliced fresh cucumber or radish, fried shallots, avocado pieces, and/or caramelized onions.

Note on walnuts: I like to add smoked walnuts to this for two reasons: the walnuts absorb a lot of flavor when smoked, so they turbocharge the flavor of the sandwiches. The walnuts also have a texture that mimics meat a little bit when chopped up and combined with tofu. It's not exact, but it is a nice addition. Walnuts should be dry smoked (so you cannot smoke them with the tofu). I've found that 20-30 minutes is usually plenty of time in my kettle smoker, but results will vary. After smoked, transfer smoked nuts to a food processor and pulse a few times until you have mostly little pieces halfway between the size of Nerds candy pieces or a bit smaller (don't overmix, or else you risk making smoked walnut butter). Add the walnuts to the tofu after the tofu is done cooking on the stovetop in the BBQ sauce. The amount you use isn't super important, but I usually start with about 3/4 cups of whole walnuts, which breaks down to about 1/2 cup of crumbles in the food processor. 

First, you'll need to freeze the tofu completley and then let it thaw out. This gives it a meatier texture and allows it to soak up the marinade.

Next, press the tofu for an hour or so in a tofu press or wrapped in a towel and placed under a heavy pan or books. After pressed, pat tofu dry and tear it apart with your hands into "pulled pork" or "shredded chicken"-like pieces. It won't be exactly the same, but you'll discover that the tofu has a grain that you can kind of work with to get pretty close. Don't shred the pieces so small that they won't be able to sit in the smoker without falling through the grates or holes (small bite-sized pieces is good). 

Now combine all the marinade ingredients EXCEPT the tofu and walnuts in a mixing bowl and whisk well. Combine tofu cubes and marinade in an airtight container and allow to marinade a minimum of 30 minutes and up to 24 hours, stirring gently occasionally, so as to not break up the tofu pieces.

Now smoke the tofu pieces. The method will vary depending on your smoker, so it may require some experimentation. For my Nordic Ware kettle smoker, I do a 60 minute "wet" smoke at 190F on the stovetop with hickory wood chips. The liquid I like to use for smoking is 2 cans of beer, which gives the tofu a bit of extra flavor, though water is fine too. Allow to cool to room temperature after smoking. Then transfer to a plate and chill completely in the refrigerator, uncovered.

Heat your oven to 300F.

OPTIONAL STEP:  This is to give the tofu a more meaty texture, if you want. After tofu has chilled in the refrigerator, spread pieces so they're not touching on a well-greased cookie sheet and bake for 15-30 minutes, or until they have become a little more toothsome and "meaty." Remove from oven and allow to cool, but leave the oven on at 300F, as you'll be using it again shortly.

Now make the sauce by melting the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Once melted, add the BBQ sauce, sugar, and agave/honey. Stir until everything gets hot and starts to simmer. Whisk it, or, ideally, use an immersion blender, until the sauce is fully integrated. Now add your cooled tofu pieces and stir very gently with a rubber spatula, so as to not break the tofu. Bring bbq sauce/tofu to a boil and remove from heat. Now stir in those walnut pieces, if using. 

Now build your sandwiches: take a standard size cookie sheet and line with foil. Put your ~6 bun bottoms on the pan and top with the bbq tofu mixture. Now top each sandwich with a couple generous pinches of white cheddar and place the pan uncovered in the oven (you can also put the bun tops in the oven to toast as well, if you want). 

Since tofu should already be warm, all you need to do is melt the cheese, so the sandwiches likely only need to be in the oven for a few minutes. Once the cheese is melted, remove from oven, add the scallions, pickled onions, and any of the optional ingredients you might also be using. Affix the top bun and enjoy!

How to doctor fake burger meat

Have you ever noticed that Impossible and Beyond imitation ground beef smells like goddamn catfood when you open it? And while both fake meats taste a lot more like burgers compared with the fake meat product of yesteryear, they still aren't marvelous. This is my quick hack to make those products taste (and smell) a lot better!

You can also get creative with this. In addition to what's below, I sometimes add dried mushroom powder or fresh mushroom pieces, very finely minced onion, fresh herbs, or spices. Just try to remember that you're just doctoring the meat, not making meatloaf, so no need to overdo it! 

12 ounce package Impossible or Beyond fake ground beef
1/4 cup crouton dust (use the food processor to pulverize the croutons)
1 TBSP Worcestershire
1 1/2 tsp liquid smoke
1 TBSP raw scrambled egg or Just Egg
1/2 tsp MSG
Healthy dose of black pepper
2-3 pinches garlic powder
A couple pinches sugar (optional)

Mix all ingredients well with your hands and then form into patties and cook in your normal manner.

Simple tapenade

Great for anytime you need a quick dip, sandwich addition, or spread! I like the big, salty flavor of a Kalamata for this if it is for a dip. But a tapenade with more delicate and mild olives is great for topping fish, chicken, or grilled vegetables (where I might add some garlic as well). You can also experiment both the ratios below and with other ingredients as well. This is a great base recipe!

Prep time: 1/4 cocktail

1 1/2 cup pitted olives, Kalamatas and/or other olive varieties, drained and lightly rinsed
1/4 cup Italian flat-leaf parsley
1/3 cup olive oil
1 TBSP fresh squeezed lemon juice + 1/2 tsp of the grated zest 
2 anchovy filets (optional)
1-2 TBSP capers + 1/2 tsp caper brine
2 TBSP shallots, finely minced
1/4 cup pine nuts
Black pepper to taste

You can lightly toast the pine nuts in a dry pan if you would like, as this brings out their full flavor. But this is an optional step. 

Combine everything EXCEPT capers, shallots, pine nuts, and pepper in food processor. Pulse the mixture until you reach the desired consistency (finely broken down but not all the way into a paste). 

Transfer olive mixture to a bowl and stir in capers, shallots, pine nuts, and pepper. 

Adjust seasoning to taste.

(Sometimes the ingredients will release liquid and it'll pool a little if the tapenade stands fro a few minutes. You can add a couple pinches of bread crumbs to absorb excess liquid. Just don't add so much bread crumbs that you change the flavor or texture of the final product.)

Spiced nuts - aka, the reason I'm gaining weight now

 

I recently gave up booze but I still like to imbibe occasionally and reefer has become my new go-to intoxicant. But moving from alcohol to the Devil's Lettuce has meant that I now develop nearly insatiable munchees on occasion. I had been stuffing my gullet with cookies and other processed snacks, but that's a 1-way ticket to hypertension. So I decided to start making spiced nuts for when I inhale a little jazz cabbage. This is a filling--but much healthier--snack. But the problem is that the recipe is too good! I've started eating these nuts at all hours, even when there's no sticky icky in sight. So just be careful. If you eat too much, you too might need to be mindful of your own ballooning waistline. That's just a testament of how good Deez Nutz really are!

The recipes below are two of my favorite spice combos, but you can use anything you want, like ras el hanout or berbere nuts for an African flair, 5-spice for a Chinese twist, or zatar and sumac for a middle eastern flair. I've even used chorizo or schwarma spice combinations that have turned out great!

There are two prep options below. The chili lime recipe calls for oil and the curry recipe calls for egg as ways to bind the seasoning to the nuts. Both are great approaches. The oil approach keeps the texture of the nuts about the same, while the egg whites make the nuts incredibly crunchy. But both methods are interchangeable--it just depends on whether you want your nuts regular or extra crunchy (or vegan v/s non-vegan). 

Prep time: Almost instant (except the baking and cooling times)

Chili lime nuts

This is my absolute favorite homemade spiced nuts recipe at the moment. 

2 cups/8 ounces of raw, unsalted nuts (my favorite for this is pecan, but anything will work, including a mix)
1-2 TBSP canola or avacado oil
1/2 tsp salt
2 TBSP Tajin 

Preheat oven to 275F in convection mode (if you don't have convection, use 300F and be mindful that you'll need to stir the nuts around a little more often and the baking time may be a little different).

In a mixing bowl, combine the nuts and oil. Nuts like walnuts and pecans have a lot of crevices, so you'll want to add more like 2 TBSP oil to fully get into all the nooks and crannies of these. If you use smoother nuts like cashews or almonds, only 1 TBSP of oil is needed. Mix very, very well (but gently) with a rubber spatula, stirring at least 60 seconds.

Now stir in salt and Tajin. Gently stir super well again with a rubber spatula--at least 60 more seconds. 

Arrange on a foil-lined baking sheet so that nuts aren't touching, and put in the oven to bake for 25-40 minutes, until the nuts have just turned a slightly darker shade and have a nice roasted flavor--but don't burn them! Remove from oven at least once during cooking and stir well and reset the nuts so that they aren't touching before putting in the oven.

Once cooked, let the pan of nuts cool on the countertop for at least 1-2 hours. Then transfer to an airtight container that has a folded paper towel at the bottom to collect any little bits of oil or moisture. 

Curried extra crunchy nuts

Using egg whites instead of oil gives these nuts a super crunchy texture. The quality and age of the curry powder can make a massive difference here, so you may need to experiment with and/or doctor your current curry powder.

2 cups/8 ounces of raw, unsalted nuts (I like walnuts most for this recipe, but any nuts or combination will work)
1 egg white
1/2 tsp salt
2 TBSP curry powder

2 TBSP brown sugar

A few pinches of other common curry spices, optional (can include ground garam masala, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, tumeric, etc.) 

Preheat oven to 275F in convection mode (if you don't have convection, use 300F and be mindful that you'll need to stir the nuts around a little more often and the baking time may be a little different).

In a smallish mixing bowl, add the egg white. Whisk the egg white pretty agressively until it goes from transparent to whiteish. Once egg white is nicely whipped, mix in nuts and incorporate egg white very well (but gently) with a rubber spatula, stirring at least 60 seconds. The nuts should look pretty much dry after the egg is fully incorporated.

Now stir in salt, curry, and brown sugar (plus any optional spices). Gently stir super well again with a rubber spatula--at least 60 more seconds. 

Arrange on a foil-lined baking sheet so that nuts aren't touching, and put in the oven to bake for 25-40 minutes, until the nuts have just turned a slightly darker shade and have a nice roasted flavor--but don't burn them! Remove from oven at least once during cooking and stir well and reset the nuts so that they aren't touching before putting in the oven.

Once cooked, let the pan of nuts cool on the countertop for at least 1-2 hours. Then transfer to an airtight container that has a folded paper towel at the bottom to collect any little bits of oil or moisture. 

All-purpose creamy coconut pasta sauce

Once in a while I want to make something that calls for some sort of basic creamy sauce, whether it's for vodka cream sauce, a hearty addition to a gnocchi or baked pasta dish, a white-sauce pizza, or just a plain alfredo-like cream sauce for a visiting friend's kid, keeping this on hand in the refrigerator or freezer (or making it real quickly on the spot) always comes in handy. Any and all additions you can think of make great optional enhancements: capers, fresh basil, baby spinach, salmon filets, etc. You can also make this vegan with fake butter and Parmesan without losing much of the great flavor. 

Prep time: 1 cocktail (but ideally you can let the flavors meld for a few hours or overnight)

3 TBSP butter or vegan butter

1 small shallot, finely minced
3-4 cloves garlic, very finely minced
1 5.5-ounce can unsweetened coconut cream (not coconut milk)

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 TBSP microplaned lemon zest

1 tsp dijon
1 TBSP nutritional yeast
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup pretty well packed parmesan, grated with a microplane (or a vegan version)

Generous several grinds black pepper
A few pinches' worth of nutmeg, fresh grated with a microplane (optional)

A little tapioca starch (optional)

Prepared pasta

On medium to medium-high heat, melt the butter and then add the shallot and saute really well, until it starts to turn light golden. Add garlic and continue sautéing another 1-2 minutes. 

Once garlic is fragrant, add coconut cream, wine, lemon zest, dijon, nutritional yeast, and salt. Use a whisk to incorporate it all and keep using it, stirring nearly constantly, until the sauce reaches a boil. Reduce to a simmer and keep whisking often.

After reducing to a simmer, you can start adding the parmesan. Add it a few pinches at a time; if you dump it all in at once, it'll make a big glob of a cheese mess. Keep whisking as you slowly add all the cheese. Once it's all incorporated and melted, you can add pepper and nutmeg to taste. 

If you want a thicker alfredo, now you can add a little tapioca starch and whisk it in well. But I prefer to let it cook down slightly and then cool before a quick reheat to serve. This gives me the right consistency without tapioca starch. Either approach is fine.

As you finish the sauce, adjust lemon, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Remove from heat and serve or (ideally) let the flavors meld for a few hours before serving. 

The ultimate vegan Thanksgiving main dish: fall manicotti

I actually dislike making the same dishes every year for Thanksgiving since I like to experiment in the kitchen and because a lot of vegetable-based thanksgiving dishes tend to be pretty boring. However, this dish, along with my stuffing tamales, have become perennial staples because they are both so goddamn good. But beware, this dish does take about a week to fully put together because of the cashew cheese fermentation process. However, the good news is that this also freezes and you can just toss the whole frozen pan(s) into the oven and cook like a lasagna. So you can also make this days or even weeks ahead of time. This recipe make 2 two full 9x13 pans or one 18x13, which will feed about 12 people as your main dish or closer to 20 people if you have other major dishes like turkey or another vegetarian main. 

Some adjustments to the three recipes below that are part of this dish: the soup recipe might be slightly thinner than you want for a manicotti sauce, so feel free to cook down a little until it thickens slightly. Also, it might not be something everybody loves, but the soup makes quite an impression as a sauce if you add a little yellow and maybe a touch of red food coloring to make it overall more orange. Alternatively, you can probably use turmeric. Make FRESH pasta; it is infinitely better than dried. You can use any good egg substitute to make this vegan (I use a combo of Just Egg, ground flax with water, and the baking egg replacement powder sold in the baking aisle). And you'll need a pasta roller--if you use a Kitchen Aid stand mixer attachment like me, you want to roll out on setting #5. Don't skip the pomegranate or sage. They are important both for flavor and--especially--for texture. I like to over ferment my cheese a tad, so I add some extra sauerkraut juice and let it sit on the counter once done an extra half day or so. Finally, when making the cheese, I like to make it ever so slightly thicker than the recipe calls for when I make it for the manicotti, as it makes it easier to handle. So you can add 10-20 percent less rice fermentation water than the recipe calls for, if you want. 

1.5 batches Colorado Craft Cashew Cheese
1.5 batches Roasted Butternut Squash and Coconut Soup
1.5 batches Handmade Pasta

Seeds of 1/2 pomegranate (a handful or two)

A couple handfuls fresh sage leaves

Canola oil for frying

Start preparing the cashew a few days ahead of time (see recipe for details).

When you're ready to make the manicotti, first prepare the soup/sauce. Once it is done, make the pasta. Cut your pasta into manicotti-size sheets, roughly 8" square, but sizing can be just about anything you want, as long as they are large enough to roll up fully.

Preheat oven to 350.

Once you have your cheese, soup/sauce, and pasta all prepped, you can assemble the manicotti. Start by adding a couple ladlefuls of soup to your baking pan(s) and spread into a single thin coating--use only enough to fully coat the bottom (to prevent the manicotti from burning). Now roll each manicotti, stuffed with several heaping spoonfuls of cheese. It's a bet messy, but try your best not to slop cheese everywhere. Pack your manicotti fairly tightly in a single layer until the whole pan(s) are filled.  

Now top the manicotti with half of the remaining soup/sauce and cover pan(s) tightly with aluminum foil. (This is where you can freeze [or refrigerate] the dish if you aren't using it right away, just freeze the leftover soup/sauce in a separate container, as you'll still need it when you cook the dish.)

 Bake until the center manicottis are fully hot (I use a probe thermometer and make sure they are at least 175F in the center). The amount of baking time will vary depending on the size and number of pans and whether you start from frozen, refrigerated, or room temp. It can be anywhere from 20 minutes to over an hour. Just peel the foil back and check every once in a while. 

As soon as you put the manicottis in the oven, deep fry your sage. Heat a cup or two of canola oil on medium heat. You want the oil to be at 250-265F, so use a candy thermometer and adjust as necessary. Working in 2-3 batches add the sage to the oil and fry, stirring very frequently, until the sage is basically done bubbling (but not burned). Remove from oil, transfer to a small stack of paper towels, sprinkle both sides generously with salt, and allow to cool completely and become crispy. Finish the other 1-2 rounds of sage in the same way. Don't throw the oil out! You can use the sage-infused oil in salad dressings, marinades, or cooking (especially other Thanksgiving dishes!). 

Once middle manicottis are hot, discard foil and add another layer of soup/sauce. It may not be necessary to add all of it if you don't want. You can always have the rest as a standalone soup! Cook uncovered ~10 more minutes, or until the freshly added soup is also hot and delicious looking but not drying out. 

Remove from oven and let rest a few minutes. Sprinkle crispy sage leaves and pomegranate seeds right before serving. 

Caramelized kimchi fried rice over Korean corn cheese

 

So corn cheese is an artifact of the Korean war when American soldiers introduced canned corn, shredded cheese, and mayonnaise to the Korean peninsula. It's now often served there as a side dish or for kids, but in this dish, it makes a wonderful foundation for the spicy, tangy, boldly-flavored kimchi fried rice. Who knew global hegemony could taste so good?!

I like to caramelize the kimchi because it's intense, sharp flavor mellows and sweetens a bit. It's a fantastic combination of sour, tangy, acidic, spicy, and umami. Over the rich and slightly sweet corn, this dish is a balanced flavor powerhouse! 

Prep time 2 cocktails

For the corn:

2 cups fresh or frozen sweet corn kernels

2 cups grated low-moisture mozzarella

1/4 cup mayo (store bought or homemade)

1 tsp sugar

1/2 tsp garlic powder

1 tsp gochugaru (you can also substitute hot paprika or Aleppo pepper)

1/4 tsp salt

Several grinds of black pepper

For the rice:
2 TBSP Gochutang paste
1 tsp soy sauce (you can also use a 50/50 soy/fish sauce combo)For the rice:

1 tsp toasted sesame oil

2 TBSP butter

1 1/2 cups cooked brown rice, chilled

1-1.5 cups kimchi, coarsley chopped (try to keep as much of the juice as possible)

3 cloves garlic

6 scallions sliced diagonally

1 bunch spinach, coarsely chopped

Eggs (optional) - you can fry them over easy on the side and serve on top of this dish or add them scrambled to the pan before adding the rice and cook until they become ruffled around the edges of the pan and have set a little bit

Preheat over to 400F. Combine all the corn ingredients into a mixing bowl and stir until everything is integrated. Transfer to an 8" cast iron pan or a ~6x8" baking dish. Place in oven and cook until the center is melted and a little bubbly. Then switch on the broiler and broil until the top is nicely browned, about 2-4 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool a bit while you finish the rice.

Once your corn is in the oven, you can start the rice: Start by combining the Gochutang paste, soy (or soy/fish sauce combo), and sesame oil in a bowl and whisk until everything is integrated. 

Now heat a large frying pan or wok over medium heat. When the pan is warm, add the butter and melt, then add garlic and 2/3 of your scallions and saute 60 seconds or until aromatic but not turning golden yet. Add kimchi and saute, stirring frequently, until kimchi is a little caramelized, about 10 minutes. Once kimchi is a little caramelized, add the soy sauce mixture and stir well. Then add the rice (with the the eggs before the rice, if you're doing scrambled eggs), and stir well. Cook until the mixture gets sizzling (if the sauce sticks to the pan, you can deglaze with a splash of water). Add the spinach and cook, stirring, 2-3 more minutes until it has shrunken, softened, and turned a vibrant green. Adjust soy (or soy/fish) sauce and sesame oil, if needed.

By the time your rice is finished, your corn should be cooled enough to eat! Spoon the rice on top of the corn, which is still in the pan. Garnish with the  remaining 1/3 of your scallions (and sesame seeds or strips of seaweed, if you like). If you made any fried eggs, an egg can go on top each portion after you dish everything up. 

Farro asparagus spring salad

 So I evidently made this two years ago and just found the recipe in my recipe journal (yes, I'm such a dork that I maintain a recipe journal). So why am I including this long-lost recipe that I don't even recall making? Well in my journal, I marked it with a huge asterisk in sloppy (drunken?) handwriting, "VERY GOOD! Put on website!" Since I'm a rule-follower above all else, I'm making good on my drunken request from a couple years ago by finally adding this recipe to this here blog!

Prep time: 2 cocktails (I guess?)

1 cup farro
1 bunch asparagus
1/2-1 cups frozen peas, boiled for a minute or two then drained and cooled
1/4-1/2 bunch of parsley leaves, chopped coarsely
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and then chopped coarsely

For the dressing:

1 TBSP fresh lemon juice + 1 tsp lemon rind, minced finely
2-3 TBSP high quality olive oil
1/2 tsp pepper
2 TBSP fresh mint leaves, chopped finely
1/2 tsp soy sauce
1/4 tsp salt
1 TBSP dijon
1/2 tsp agave
1 TBSP shallot, finely minced or grated with a microplane

For garnish:
1-2 handfulls pomegranate seeds (it's easy to get the seeds out of the fruit if you watch a quick youtube tutorial or you can use pre-seeded)

Several large pinches black sesame seeds
Crumbled feta cheese  to taste (splurge and get a good one - it makes a difference!)
Additional minced mint

Combine all dressing ingredients in a jar with an airtight lid and shake until well-mixed.

Cook farro according to directions (or online instructions) with a few pinches of salt. Let cool.

Cut or snap off woody bottoms to the asparagus and blanch is a large pot of boiling water 2-4 minutes, then strain and plunge immediately into a large ice bath. Once cool, rinse and cut the spears in half.

Build the salad in layers on one large serving platter for maximum visual appeal, starting with the bottom, the layers should be:

1. Farro
2. Parsley
3. Asparagus
4. Peas
5. Walnut

Now drizzle with the dressing (you don't have to use all of it if you don't want). On top of that add the feta, then the additional mint, then the pomegranate, then the black sesame. Serve immediately!

Pozole Verde: Eat Now, Eat Often

 

I created this recipe when I hosted a benefit dinner last year. It was late well the fall and so I made the entire dinner global variations of chili. I made a bunch of things from this blog, like Rajma, Cincinnati Chili, and a jerk-based chili with faux chicken. As great as all the other selections were, they tended to all be pretty hearty, heavy chilis. Even for an outdoor dinner on a crisp fall night, I wanted one option that was lighter and brighter to break things up a little bit. While not bean-based, pozole is a great warming satisfying soup. If it's not chili by definition, it's close enough for a chili cook off. And thank gawd I made it. People devoured it faster than squirrels at a nut convention. It was gone faster than coffee at an AA meeting. Folks raved about it more than beer dorks at a Dogfish Head tasting. People liked it, is what I'm trying to say.

Prep time: 3 cocktails

2 x 25-ounce cans hominy, drained and rinsed

3 jalapeños

1 pound tomatillos, dehusked
4-5 fresh poblano peppers
1 very large onion, peeled and chopped into 4-6 pieces

4 TBSP canola or vegetable oil, divided
1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds
1 bunch cilantro, stems cut off
6-8 cloves garlic - keep intact and the skin on!
4 tsp whole cumin seeds

1-2 Quarts veggie stock, store-bought or homemade
For serving: lime wedges, sliced cabbage, sliced radish, avocado, crema or cotija cheese (both are optional), chopped scallion and/or jalapeño

Preheat oven to a broil and heat up your grill to a medium heat ~450F.

Toast cumin over medium-low heat in a small, dry frying pan for a few minutes until it has turned a couple shades darker and is aromatic. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind into a powder.

In the oven, broil tomatillos and garlic, stirring a few times in the process, in two separate baking sheets until garlic is soft and pretty evenly golden but not browned and tomatillos are pretty well charred. Garlic will only take a few minutes, tomatillos will take longer. 

While your tomatillos and garlic are broiling, place your onions, jalapeños, and poblanos directly on the grill grate and roast until pretty well-charred, turning occasionally so all sides are a bit blackened. This will take 10-20 minutes, depending on your grill. Remove and transfer the peppers to a paper or plastic bag and seal to let them steam for at least 10 minutes (the onions can just cool on your countertop). 

Wipe out the pan you toasted the cumin seeds with and put it back on the stovetop over medium-low to medium heat with 1 TBSP oil. When the pan is warm, add the pumpkin seeds and fry stirring almost constantly until the seeds are toasted and popping a bit. Remove from heat and transfer to a small dish to cool.

After poblanos have cooled enough to handle, remove seeds/guts, tops, and skins under cold running water. Also, peel your garlic once it has cooled and cut the tops off the jalapeños (but retain the skin and guts for flavor and heat!

Transfer poblanos, onions, garlic, tomatillos, jalapeños, pumpkin seeds, cilantro, and ground cumin into blender, then add just enough veggie stock so it can all blend (if your blender isn't large enough, you will want to work in batches). Puree until you have a nice smooth consistency.

In a large pot, heat 3 TBSP oil over medium to medium-high heat. Once hot, add the puree from blender and fry, stirring constantly for 5 minutes. Add 4 cups veggie stock and bring to boil. Add hominy and cook a few more minutes, adjusting salt if needed.

Serve with all the garnishes!

Vegan (or not) miso slaw

Now that summer is in full swing, we have an overwhelming amount of fresh veggies coming from the garden. That's one reason why this recipe is so great: while I use cabbage and carrots, you can opt for just about any crunchy vegetables that you have on hand or in the garden. Instead of (or in addition to) my veggies, you can also use broccoli, Brussels sprouts, bell peppers, radish, cucumber, zucchini, Napa cabbage, or anything else you can think of. Just shred, julienne or grate what you decide to throw in there. This is adapted from the Bon Appetit creamy miso slaw recipe. 

Prep time: 1/2 cocktail

2/3 cup Just Mayo (I think it's the best brand of vegan mayo by a long shot) or non-vegan mayonnaise
2 TBSP red miso
2 TBSP rice vinegar
1 TBSP grated ginger
2 tsp sugar
2 TBSP soy sauce
1 tsp rice wine
1 tsp toasted sesame oil

1 tsp lemon juice
1 small head cabbage or 1/2 large head finely shredded
2 carrots peeled and grated
4 scallions, thinly sliced on a diagonal
Garnish: black and/or tan sesame seeds and/or a bit of chopped cilantro

In a mixing bowl, whisk first 8 ingredients really well, adjust soy sauce, lemon juice, or sugar as desired (I usually add just a touch more sugar and lemon juice). Toss dressing with cabbage, carrots, and scallions. Let chill in the refrigerator until completely cold. Toss again and garnish right before serving. 

Colorado Craft Cashew Cheese

Vegan cheese. It’s a thing. And nowadays vegan cheeses are infinitely better than the weird old fake cheeses that looked unsettlingly like melted Saran Wrap once cooked (and probably tasted like it too). Plant-based cheeses are enjoying a renaissance because folks who are making faux cheeses are increasingly adopting traditional approaches to cheese making, rather than the “Better Living Through Chemistry” approach that used to be the norm whereby the soy or almond cheeses were made with a bunch of weird processed elements that were shipped from a factory somewhere off the Jersey Turnpike. But now, a much better crop un-cheeses are available that follow traditional cheese making approaches like fermenting and aging the cheeses, smoking them, integrating herbs, or washing the rind. This is one such recipe, where you’ll undertake a brief fermentation period to give your cashew cheese just a slight hint of sourness that a really delightful Buratta might have with the consistency of ricotta. It is perfect for stuffed shells, manicotti, or use in a lasagna.

You’ll also need to sprout some grains to get things started. This is a super simple process but does require two specialty items: a mason jar and a sprouting lid. You can get both for a couple dollars at a local kitchen store or online. The sprouting lid will also come with instructions (or you can find them online), so I’ll omit them here.

Prep time: a few days

½ cup brown rice – you cannot use white, as it doesn’t sprout
4 cups raw, unsated, and unseasoned cashews
2 tsp salt
Juice from 2 lemons
Something to kickstart fermentation – this can be a tablespoon of sauerkraut juice (if the kraut is sold refrigerated and not processed and sold at room temp), a couple tablespoons of unflavored yogurt (vegan is fine), or the contents of one acidophilus capsule

  

Sprout the rice. This takes a few days. You don’t want it to develop into fully-formed sprouts. Instead, you want to sprout them to the point where all the grains have basically just started to grow “tails.”

Once sprouted, pour 2 ½ cups of water over the rice, so it is submerged an let it stand for 24 hours at room temperature. The rice water will be undergoing a fermentation and will actually smell slightly cheesy by the end and be a tad bubbly.

When your rice water is 8-16 hours away from completing its 24-hour fermentation soak, put the cashews in a very large mixing bowl with a few quarts of water to soak. The cashews will expand quite a bit, so use a bigger bowl and more water than you think you might need.

After the cashews have soaked for their 8-16 hours and the rice has fermented for 24 hours, you’ll want to keep the 2 1/2 cups of rice WATER, but not the rice. You can discard the rice. Also, drain the cashews but discard their water. Transfer rice water and cashews to a food processor or blender (you might have to work in batches). Blend, using as much additional water as needed to get the right consistency – you want something halfway between pancake batter and creamy peanut butter. Keep that food processor running a long time--the smoother the texture, the better. I let my processor run for 5-10 minutes.

Transfer your cashew blend to a large mixing bowl and add your sauerkraut juice, yogurt, or probiotic capsule. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let ferment for 24 more hours at room temperature.

Now, add salt and squeeze in lemon juice. Stir well.

Viola! You now have incredible, home-fermented vegan cheese for anything from cannelloni to cannoli (for cannoli, you’ll obviously still need to sweeten your cheese).

Ash Reshteh – Persian for “OMFG, this is good!”

This is my take on a classic Persian soup that in a fantastic way to use up a ton of greens and herbs that may be coming out of your garden or CSA bag. I honestly had some low expectations the first time I made this. It sounded like a pretty boring soup: healthfood masquerading as something fun. But rather than being uninspired glop, this turned out to be a hugely satisfying and incredibly delicious recipe—in part because of the use of a variety of wonderful garnishes. Being wrong has never been as deliciously pleasant.

Serve with a crap ton of garnishes and flatbread, if available.

Prep time: 3 cocktails

1 bunch Italian flat leaf parsley, stems removed
1-2 bunches cilantro, stems removed
1 cup fresh dill, stems removed
1 cup fresh basil, stems removed
Olive oil
1 ½ yellow onions, chopped
3-4 cloves garlic
½ tsp turmeric
1 TBSP zaatar
Ground black pepper
1 can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
¼-1/2 cup French green lentils
3 quarts vegetable stock, homemade or store-bought
1 pound frozen spinach or chard, chopped
6-8 ounces whole wheat linguini
1-2 pinches saffron
Lemon wedges

Garnishes should include at least a few of the following:
Fresh mint
Plain yogurt or sour cream
Fried scallions (you can make them yourself or buy a bag at an Asian grocer)
The greens of a bunch of scallions, chopped

Combine herbs in a food processor and pulse until you get to the point of having them coarsely chopped – maybe 6-8 pulses. You want the average piece to be a little smaller than your pinky fingernail. Set aside.

In a large pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Once shimmering, add onions and sauté, stirring well, until they turn a little golden brown, about 15 minutes. Add garlic and sauté one more minute, stirring a few times. Add turmeric, zaatar, and a lot of fresh ground black pepper and stir until everything is well-integrated and fragrant, about 30-60 seconds.

Add garbanzo beans and lentils. Stir well for 30 seconds and add your veggie stock, frozen spinach or chard, and the herb mixture from the food processor. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, covered for 60 minutes. Adding water if needed.

Now break your dried linguini in half and break each half again so that you end p with quarter-length noodles. Stir into the soup and stir frequently. Boil uncovered until the noodles are done and the lentils are soft – about 20-30 more minutes, adding more water if necessary.

When noodles are just about done, boil a very small amount of water. Crush up the saffron threads between your fingers and place in a small bowl. Pour a couple tablespoons of the boiling water over the threads and allow to steep for 2 minutes. Then add the saffron/water to the soup and stir well. Cook everything a couple more minutes and adjust taste, as necessary.

Serve with lemon wedges and garnishes.