Saturday, November 25, 2023

The ultimate vegan Thanksgiving main dish: fall manicotti

I actually dislike making the same dishes every year for Thanksgiving since I like to experiment in the kitchen and because a lot of vegetable-based thanksgiving dishes tend to be pretty boring. However, this dish, along with my stuffing tamales, have become perennial staples because they are both so goddamn good. But beware, this dish does take about a week to fully put together because of the cashew cheese fermentation process. However, the good news is that this also freezes and you can just toss the whole frozen pan(s) into the oven and cook like a lasagna. So you can also make this days or even weeks ahead of time. This recipe make 2 two full 9x13 pans or one 18x13, which will feed about 12 people as your main dish or closer to 20 people if you have other major dishes like turkey or another vegetarian main. 

Some adjustments to the three recipes below that are part of this dish: the soup recipe might be slightly thinner than you want for a manicotti sauce, so feel free to cook down a little until it thickens slightly. Also, it might not be something everybody loves, but the soup makes quite an impression as a sauce if you add a little yellow and maybe a touch of red food coloring to make it overall more orange. Alternatively, you can probably use turmeric. Make FRESH pasta; it is infinitely better than dried. You can use any good egg substitute to make this vegan (I use a combo of Just Egg, ground flax with water, and the baking egg replacement powder sold in the baking aisle). And you'll need a pasta roller--if you use a Kitchen Aid stand mixer attachment like me, you want to roll out on setting #5. Don't skip the pomegranate or sage. They are important both for flavor and--especially--for texture. I like to over ferment my cheese a tad, so I add some extra sauerkraut juice and let it sit on the counter once done an extra half day or so. Finally, when making the cheese, I like to make it ever so slightly thicker than the recipe calls for when I make it for the manicotti, as it makes it easier to handle. So you can add 10-20 percent less rice fermentation water than the recipe calls for, if you want. 

Seeds of 1/2 pomegranate (a handful or two)
A couple handfuls fresh sage leaves
Canola oil for frying

Start preparing the cashew a few days ahead of time (see recipe for details).

When you're ready to make the manicotti, first prepare the soup/sauce. Once it is done, make the pasta. Cut your pasta into manicotti-size sheets, roughly 8" square, but sizing can be just about anything you want, as long as they are large enough to roll up fully.

Preheat oven to 350.

Once you have your cheese, soup/sauce, and pasta all prepped, you can assemble the manicotti. Start by adding a couple ladlefuls of soup to your baking pan(s) and spread into a single thin coating--use only enough to fully coat the bottom (to prevent the manicotti from burning). Now roll each manicotti, stuffed with several heaping spoonfuls of cheese. It's a bet messy, but try your best not to slop cheese everywhere. Pack your manicotti fairly tightly in a single layer until the whole pan(s) are filled.  

Now top the manicotti with half of the remaining soup/sauce and cover pan(s) tightly with aluminum foil. (This is where you can freeze [or refrigerate] the dish if you aren't using it right away, just freeze the leftover soup/sauce in a separate container, as you'll still need it when you cook the dish.)

 Bake until the center manicottis are fully hot (I use a probe thermometer and make sure they are at least 175F in the center). The amount of baking time will vary depending on the size and number of pans and whether you start from frozen, refrigerated, or room temp. It can be anywhere from 20 minutes to over an hour. Just peel the foil back and check every once in a while. 

As soon as you put the manicottis in the oven, deep fry your sage. Heat a cup or two of canola oil on medium heat. You want the oil to be at 250-265F, so use a candy thermometer and adjust as necessary. Working in 2-3 batches add the sage to the oil and fry, stirring very frequently, until the sage is basically done bubbling (but not burned). Remove from oil, transfer to a small stack of paper towels, sprinkle both sides generously with salt, and allow to cool completely and become crispy. Finish the other 1-2 rounds of sage in the same way. Don't throw the oil out! You can use the sage-infused oil in salad dressings, marinades, or cooking (especially other Thanksgiving dishes!). 

Once middle manicottis are hot, discard foil and add another layer of soup/sauce. It may not be necessary to add all of it if you don't want. You can always have the rest as a standalone soup! Cook uncovered ~10 more minutes, or until the freshly added soup is also hot and delicious looking but not drying out. 

Remove from oven and let rest a few minutes. Sprinkle crispy sage leaves and pomegranate seeds right before serving. 


Sunday, August 20, 2023

Caramelized kimchi fried rice over Korean corn cheese

 


So corn cheese is an artifact of the Korean war when American soldiers introduced canned corn, shredded cheese, and mayonnaise to the Korean peninsula. It's now often served there as a side dish or for kids, but in this dish, it makes a wonderful foundation for the spicy, tangy, boldly-flavored kimchi fried rice. Who knew global hegemony could taste so good?!

I like to caramelize the kimchi because it's intense, sharp flavor mellows and sweetens a bit. It's a fantastic combination of sour, tangy, acidic, spicy, and umami. Over the rich and slightly sweet corn, this dish is a balanced flavor powerhouse! 

Prep time 2 cocktails

For the corn:
2 cups fresh or frozen sweet corn kernels
2 cups grated low-moisture mozzarella
1/4 cup mayo (store bought or homemade)
1 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp gochugaru (you can also substitute hot paprika or Aleppo pepper)
1/4 tsp salt
Several grinds of black pepper

For the rice:
2 TBSP Gochutang paste
1 tsp soy sauce (you can also use a 50/50 soy/fish sauce combo)For the rice:
1 tsp toasted sesame oil
2 TBSP butter
1 1/2 cups cooked brown rice, chilled
1-1.5 cups kimchi, coarsley chopped (try to keep as much of the juice as possible)
3 cloves garlic
6 scallions sliced diagonally
1 bunch spinach, coarsely chopped
Eggs (optional) - you can fry them over easy on the side and serve on top of this dish or add them scrambled to the pan before adding the rice and cook until they become ruffled around the edges of the pan and have set a little bit

Preheat over to 400F. Combine all the corn ingredients into a mixing bowl and stir until everything is integrated. Transfer to an 8" cast iron pan or a ~6x8" baking dish. Place in oven and cook until the center is melted and a little bubbly. Then switch on the broiler and broil until the top is nicely browned, about 2-4 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool a bit while you finish the rice.

Once your corn is in the oven, you can start the rice: Start by combining the Gochutang paste, soy (or soy/fish sauce combo), and sesame oil in a bowl and whisk until everything is integrated. 

Now heat a large frying pan or wok over medium heat. When the pan is warm, add the butter and melt, then add garlic and 2/3 of your scallions and saute 60 seconds or until aromatic but not turning golden yet. Add kimchi and saute, stirring frequently, until kimchi is a little caramelized, about 10 minutes. Once kimchi is a little caramelized, add the soy sauce mixture and stir well. Then add the rice (with the the eggs before the rice, if you're doing scrambled eggs), and stir well. Cook until the mixture gets sizzling (if the sauce sticks to the pan, you can deglaze with a splash of water). Add the spinach and cook, stirring, 2-3 more minutes until it has shrunken, softened, and turned a vibrant green. Adjust soy (or soy/fish) sauce and sesame oil, if needed.

By the time your rice is finished, your corn should be cooled enough to eat! Spoon the rice on top of the corn, which is still in the pan. Garnish with the  remaining 1/3 of your scallions (and sesame seeds or strips of seaweed, if you like). If you made any fried eggs, an egg can go on top each portion after you dish everything up. 

Sunday, July 2, 2023

Farro asparagus spring salad

 So I evidently made this two years ago and just found the recipe in my recipe journal (yes, I'm such a dork that I maintain a recipe journal). So why am I including this long-lost recipe that I don't even recall making? Well in my journal, I marked it with a huge asterisk in sloppy (drunken?) handwriting, "VERY GOOD! Put on website!" Since I'm a rule-follower above all else, I'm making good on my drunken request from a couple years ago by finally adding this recipe to this here blog!

Prep time: 2 cocktails (I guess?)

1 cup farro
1 bunch asparagus
1/2-1 cups frozen peas, boiled for a minute or two then drained and cooled
1/4-1/2 bunch of parsley leaves, chopped coarsely
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and then chopped coarsely

For the dressing:

1 TBSP fresh lemon juice + 1 tsp lemon rind, minced finely
2-3 TBSP high quality olive oil
1/2 tsp pepper
2 TBSP fresh mint leaves, chopped finely
1/2 tsp soy sauce
1/4 tsp salt
1 TBSP dijon
1/2 tsp agave
1 TBSP shallot, finely minced or grated with a microplane

For garnish:
1-2 handfulls pomegranate seeds (it's easy to get the seeds out of the fruit if you watch a quick youtube tutorial or you can use pre-seeded)
Several large pinches black sesame seeds
Crumbled feta cheese  to taste (splurge and get a good one - it makes a difference!)
Additional minced mint

Combine all dressing ingredients in a jar with an airtight lid and shake until well-mixed.

Cook farro according to directions (or online instructions) with a few pinches of salt. Let cool.

Cut or snap off woody bottoms to the asparagus and blanch is a large pot of boiling water 2-4 minutes, then strain and plunge immediately into a large ice bath. Once cool, rinse and cut the spears in half.

Build the salad in layers on one large serving platter for maximum visual appeal, starting with the bottom, the layers should be:

  1. Farro
  2. Parsley
  3. Asparagus
  4. Peas
  5. Walnut
Now drizzle with the dressing (you don't have to use all of it if you don't want). On top of that add the feta, then the additional mint, then the pomegranate, then the black sesame. Serve immediately!

Pozole Verde: Eat Now, Eat Often


 

I created this recipe when I hosted a benefit dinner last year. It was late well the fall and so I made the entire dinner global variations of chili. I made a bunch of things from this blog, like Rajma, Cincinnati Chili, and a jerk-based chili with faux chicken. As great as all the other selections were, they tended to all be pretty hearty, heavy chilis. Even for an outdoor dinner on a crisp fall night, I wanted one option that was lighter and brighter to break things up a little bit. While not bean-based, pozole is a great warming satisfying soup. If it's not chili by definition, it's close enough for a chili cook off. And thank gawd I made it. People devoured it faster than squirrels at a nut convention. It was gone faster than coffee at an AA meeting. Folks raved about it more than beer dorks at a Dogfish Head tasting. People liked it, is what I'm trying to say.

Prep time: 3 cocktails

2 x 25-ounce cans hominy, drained and rinsed
3 jalapeños
1 pound tomatillos, dehusked
4-5 fresh poblano peppers
1 very large onion, peeled and chopped into 4-6 pieces
4 TBSP canola or vegetable oil, divided
1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds
1 bunch cilantro, stems cut off
6-8 cloves garlic - keep intact and the skin on!
4 tsp whole cumin seeds
1-2 Quarts veggie stock, store-bought or homemade
For serving: lime wedges, sliced cabbage, sliced radish, avocado, crema or cotija cheese (both are optional), chopped scallion and/or jalapeño

Preheat oven to a broil and heat up your grill to a medium heat ~450F.

Toast cumin over medium-low heat in a small, dry frying pan for a few minutes until it has turned a couple shades darker and is aromatic. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind into a powder.

In the oven, broil tomatillos and garlic, stirring a few times in the process, in two separate baking sheets until garlic is soft and pretty evenly golden but not browned and tomatillos are pretty well charred. Garlic will only take a few minutes, tomatillos will take longer. 

While your tomatillos and garlic are broiling, place your onions, jalapeños, and poblanos directly on the grill grate and roast until pretty well-charred, turning occasionally so all sides are a bit blackened. This will take 10-20 minutes, depending on your grill. Remove and transfer the peppers to a paper or plastic bag and seal to let them steam for at least 10 minutes (the onions can just cool on your countertop). 

Wipe out the pan you toasted the cumin seeds with and put it back on the stovetop over medium-low to medium heat with 1 TBSP oil. When the pan is warm, add the pumpkin seeds and fry stirring almost constantly until the seeds are toasted and popping a bit. Remove from heat and transfer to a small dish to cool.

After poblanos have cooled enough to handle, remove seeds/guts, tops, and skins under cold running water. Also, peel your garlic once it has cooled and cut the tops off the jalapeños (but retain the skin and guts for flavor and heat!

Transfer poblanos, onions, garlic, tomatillos, jalapeños, pumpkin seeds, cilantro, and ground cumin into blender, then add just enough veggie stock so it can all blend (if your blender isn't large enough, you will want to work in batches). Puree until you have a nice smooth consistency.

In a large pot, heat 3 TBSP oil over medium to medium-high heat. Once hot, add the puree from blender and fry, stirring constantly for 5 minutes. Add 4 cups veggie stock and bring to boil. Add hominy and cook a few more minutes, adjusting salt if needed.

Serve with all the garnishes!